Kirpan is allowed in Singapore MRI

UIAA membership and guides

I have a question about International Federation for Climbing and Mountaineering (UIAA) membership.

Shouldn't it allow me to climb the mountains without hiring a guide? Which is usually the most expensive part.

They always say I'm not qualified, but they really just want the money. Is there some way to get around them (I understand it depends on the mountain, but in general)?

I know my limits and accept park entry fees, but guide?

UPDATE: At the moment I want to climb Gerlachovský štít (Slovakia, Vysoke Tatry).

Only official climbing that is allowed is directed by a guide or someone who has “certification from a national mountaineering organization”.

Before that, however, I had problems in Asia like the Philippines and Malaysia

and the real question is: are there some certifications / documents that prove i am more than capable of climbing with my group without paying local guides?

  • Where do you want to climb Can you use a mountain as an example? What kind of climbing are you going to do? I feel like there is some misunderstanding, but we can provide a good answer if we know a few more details.
  • 1 Who Says You Are Not Qualified? The climbing association says: "The UIAA does not accept individual memberships." So isn't it the ones who say you don't qualify?
  • I've updated the question
  • I think this would be better answered on THe Great Outdoors.se
  • 1 @Mts I didn't vote narrowly. I just think TGO can better answer that.

Your question seems to come from Wikipedia which says:

Only members of a national UIAA club are allowed to climb the summit alone. Other visitors must bring a certified mountain guide with them.

As pointed out in the other answer from @Grzenio (to whom +1), you cannot be a member of the UIAA but of a national member club as correctly stated on Wikipedia. If you are not a member of such a club in your home country, you should consider the Austrian or German Alpine Club, which also offers insurance for mountain sports.

This criterion seems to be purely formal about membership as I've read it and the more detailed rules here on Summitpost.org seem to confirm this. Now notice that e.g. As a DAV member you don't even have to be able to climb stairs, lock a mountain, anyone can join in, so this doesn't say anything about your climbing skills. To the best of my knowledge, there is no certification for climbing skills and I wouldn't expect one to be there considering how variable climbing is.

You should try, however not to be killed about to climb this mountain. I have no idea how much experience you have in the mountains and climbing, but since this is the question you need to ask here, let me say a word of caution:

  • This is a climb, not a hike. You will need to use your hands for at least part of the climb, and at some point you may appreciate being secured in some way.

  • You have to register and de-register before and after the ascent, otherwise the mountain rescue will pick you up if you show up late.

  • There seems to be only a small window of time that is good for this early summer ascent.

  • Pay attention to the weather as in:

    Be warned, this is an alpine setting where snow is expected at any time of the year, and I've found the weather to close much faster here than any other area I've climbed. It can be beautiful for a moment, but minutes later you can be in the middle of a thunderstorm blowing from the valley.

A good starting point for more information seems to be on this page, from which the above quote is taken.

Certainly the guides have an incentive to get paid, but they are nice people too (I know some but not in the area) and prefer you to come back from the mountain alive. They are also likely to be the same people who will pick you up if you need mountain rescue. So be nice to them.

Edit: It seems like you want to climb in a group. Everything I said above applies to them too, i. H. You also need to be a member of a local alpine club and have a better understanding of what they are doing. You cannot be their official guide and quote the rules from above:

Only the licensed climbing instructors (Local UIAGM Guides) are allowed to climb with a person who is not a member of a UIAA club. & lsqb; ... & rsqb;

  • thanks for the answer, i understand all of this. I am now in the process of joining my home organization. But I want to know the value of it. Right now this is just a mountain, but how can this organization be useful in general? Or does it always depend on the local rules (which means if the guide wants the money he can forbid me to climb)?
  • and I have nothing against the leaders, but sometimes (especially in Asia) they are far too greedy
  • Where are you from? In all honesty, I think it's not about the money but your safety as mentioned above. To be honest, this type of requirement is new to me, but a member of a local The UIAA club has many advantages in the Alps - you might want to join them as opposed to your local club. If you'd like to discuss more, call me in our chat with "@mts". Good climbing :)
  • I forgot to tag you @lasoweq
  • The thing is, I can join the local UIAA club for 25 EUR, nothing else is required. So I see this as some kind of fraud ...

As far as I know, UIAA is an association of climbing and mountaineering clubs. The full list can be found here: http://www.theuiaa.org/member-federations.html. E.g. in the UK the British Mountaineering Council is the only full member of the UIAA. You can register with the BMA. In Poland there is the PZA, which in turn is a local association. That means you can only enroll in one of the smaller clubs affiliated with PZA.

Mountaineering permits vary according to local regulations. As far as I know, in most places (e.g. in the Alps in Europe) you can climb alone at your own risk without a permit or guide. In other places (e.g. in the Himalayas) you will need to buy a permit and hire a guide. It would be more helpful if you indicate where exactly you want to climb.